Days 5 - 11 (Sender Descatalogado)

The above text is printed all over the GR11 notice boards in the Navarra region. It means that the route is discontinued. For a few years now all markings have been left to decay, and most refuges not maintained. This explains a few things, like markings being very random, which is not helped by maps which are an approximation at best.

Anyway I am actually 1 day ahead of schedule despite this in a lovely village at around 1300m called Sallent De Gallego in the school library. Sorry for lack of posts but internet is difficult to get round here.

I´ve passed through the Camino route and saw loads of sad looking pilgrims going to Santiago, and now on the pure GR11 which is much better marked in Navarra region. Only seen a dozen or so other people doing the route though.

The wildlife is interesting. Vampire Slugs try to get me each night in my tent and each morning the tent is cris-crossed by slug trails. A wild boar came into my campsite in the forest but ran away when I shone my torch at him. Snakes, lizards, weird yellow spiders, loads of horse fowling, bats etc give me some company. However made a friend for 2 days; Brent from California, who has now gone over to France, but before he went gave me half his travel book which is much better than mine. Very kind of him really, but I suspect it was guilt from breaking my water bottle :-) We climbed a monster mountain called Zurizza or something, a big slab of limestone that looks spectactular. Photos to be added when I get a more modern PC with USB...

Anyway I cant beleive so few people do this trek. The food is splendid, towns lovely, scenery incredible, wine cheap (or so people tell me). The other night I slept in an abandoned campsite complete with changing rooms, bar restaurant, wash blocks etc just decaying. Very sad, as the area is incredible.

Anyway tomorrow I have 1 verticle kilometer to climb which will take about 6 hours or so and then into the really big hills. Seen a lot of snow already but much more up there.

At least my pack is a lot lighter as I´ve finally eaten all the english food items, and playing an interesting game of ´whats in this packet?´now.

Regards to all

The Rain in Spain fell mainly on my Brain

Days 1 -4 30, 30, 20, and 19 kilometres

Arrived at midnight in Irun, all planes, taxis and busses went to plan, filled up the fuel for stove at the gassolinera, got a very yellow room for €15 and a butty so felt ready for the trek. Loads of turbulance on the plane though. Taxi arrived promtly and dropped me off at the lighthouse at the start, I got my rucsack and paid the driver who then drove off with my maps, compass and case.

Forward 3 hours I tracked down the driver from the hostal and I´m off again, albeit a bit late and its raining heavily. Navigation tricky since Spanish Maps are only an approximation of what is on the ground. A black line is a forest path, a wide track or a mettalled road. Many roads do not appear on the maps, and the route markings (red and white dashes) are rare indeed and very old and faded. Some are on trees that have been cut down!

My gear weighs a ton so I dump the 550g water filter as there are loads of fresh water points. Got a room at a hostal and met a guy called George from Spain just finishing from the other way. He warned me that the markings only get worse and he got lost having done the walk before. So day 2 took 12 hours not 8, and I walked into the town stinking and dripping. I got a room, and the next morning posted my heavy warm top home.

Day three and navigation a nightmare again and it got really hot. I met some French on the HRP section who where romoving ticks they had picked up, so I changed into tight fitting undies ASAP. The area must have been active during the civil war as there are bunkers everywhere. I pitched the tent on top of one in the woods, having explored inside first. Mist came down quickly, fealt a bit homesick then remembered I had a Soreen Lincolnshire (Soft and Moist) plum pudding in the bag. This was splendid indeed and cheered me up no end.

Day four and I am covered in soot from the remnants of bush fires which sweapt the region last year, again a real lack of markers and poor maps seems to be adding to the time. But the camp site has a laundry area and showers so I do not smell so much any more. Regards to all and thanks to everyone for sponsorship, I am on schedule, so everyone who waited to sponsor me to see if I really am daft enough to do this cough up!

Adios, Barrie

Training – May

My training suffered a bit of a blow after my last post as I had a bout of the Shingles. The spotty blighters are not really a problem, but they leave a legacy of pain known as ‘post herpetic neuralgia’ which is a damaged nerve on one side of the body. Anyway, after some rest and gentle build up I am back on track, and this weekend completed a 2 day trek from the Conway Valley to Llanberris via Moel Siabod and an overnight camp under Snowdon. With a sort of zigzag around the Snowdon Massif it was about 20k each day, with full kit, and 1800m of ascent in bad conditions and over rough terrain. I felt really good the day after, and look forward to the physical effects that 7 weeks continual walking will bring. My two best favourite items on this trip are the Terra Nova tent and the Snugpac sleeping bag.

If you’re in the area I can recommend beans on toast from the Tŷ Mawr tea shop in Rhyd Ddu. It is run by a young couple who serve good homely food, generous servings, reasonable prices and a friendly welcome. Whilst I was there, a group of soaking Para’s arrived with full kit. John the owner sat them in front of the coal stove, and stored their kit in the kitchen, Claire delivered hot food and drinks from the kitchen. An elderly local couple sat bemused in the corner whilst tucking into full cooked dinner.

Please visit them: http://www.snowdon-accommodation.co.uk/ they also do B&B.

Talking of food, my Frankenstein camp stove works well and cooking up sausage and onions in the tent porch as it was raining and blowing a gale outside was a good feeling. My 22 year old Gore-Tex jacket has seen better days though. It acts like an absorbent kitchen towel despite having grangers and nikwax thrown at it. I shall have to ditch any attachment to it, and spend out on some fancy new one.

I have one more weekend of training left, when I shall nip up to the lakes for 2 solid days. The final weekend before I leave will involve Tracey and I taking a trip to Windsor races for a company bash, where any benefits from training will be washed away.

Above is a picture from the area; not from this walk as it was too wet to get the camera out. It is from Tryffan, and is a montage of the view looking into the Ogwen Valley.

Next post from Spain!

Preparation April 2007

My training continues with a good Easter Camping in the Langdale valley with the family. My goodness though it was busy; the path up to Pavey Arc was a conveyer belt, but things were quieter up on Bow Fell and Crinkle Crags. Each day was the equivalent height and distance of a GR11 day but without full weight and still hard going. Grim realisation has set in of the task ahead.

Flights are booked: £38 quid outgoing to Bilboa and £44 for the return from Barcelona on Easyjet to Liverpool so result there. I’ve picked up Macpac rucksack for a good price from a local outdoors shop. It feels sturdy, not like some of the others I’ve tried which seem a bit flimsy. Another overnight test this weekend has reminded me that ear plugs will be useful, as the tents next door had 10 teenaged girls (my daughter’s sleepover party). However, I don’t think any mountain hut full of snoring Spaniards will ever compete with that din!

A couple of people have asked about the mental preparation, and aftermath of a total lifestyle change for seven weeks. The concern is that I will go slightly mad during this time, and lots of people say “What, on your own?” when I tell them about this. But I will have an mp3 phone/radio with music and several audio books if I get too lonely. I don’t mind my own company, but will welcome anyone who wants to pop over to Spain to meet up for a few days on the trail. How will I cope upon my return? Well Tracey tells me there will be seven weeks of DIY jobs to catch up on so at least I’ll be busy.

Thanks to those who have sponsored me so far. The London Marathon is over now, so I will give people a few weeks to recover from charity fatigue before I start actively chasing sponsorship.

Preparation - March 2007

Hi there

Preparation for the trek are ongoing with 3 months to go. I spent Saturday doing a 26k walk over the Yorkshire Dales in the rain, wind and cold. My knee seems to be fine with no pain at all, as long as I keep up with the physiotherapy routine. It's strange that small focused exercise can make such a difference. My kit list is growing, and a I acquired a Rab Vapour-rise jacket for the walk, which I am really impressed with. E-bay is helping keep the costs down, and if Tracey recovers some of her bank charges she has promised to spend some of it on a new Osprey rucsac for me.

The Spanish CD is getting about 30 minutes a day in the car, but I really could do with lessons.

Tracey and the kids have still not decided if they want to meet me at some point. I suppose it will come down to cost and we will check out flights nearer the date.

I'm not sure when to actively start chasing sponsorship. People will be charitied out what with Red Nose Day shortly. I guess around Easter time will be about right. My reason for choosing Combat Stress is two-fold. I've always thought that mental health charities are generally under-financed, and I have a good deal of sympathy for people in the forces who suffer this way as a result of seeing active service. The effect on themeselves and their families of PTSD is pernicious and mis-understood. CS seem to be a very pragmatic, effective and efficient organisation, and I expect their need will only grow in future years.

To find out more about the impact of PTSD, read the following:
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/article722511.ece